From there we went to Heidelberg, the second oldest university city north of the Alps (the university was founded in the 1300s). Perhaps it's greatest highlight is the castle which sits high above the city. The castle was built in the 1200s and remained steadfast and strong, unable to be breached until the 1600s when the French discovered gunpowder and blew away part of the castle walls, WWII did the rest. It is also where many many years ago we went to see the play "The Student Prince" which is about a prince who goes to university and is introduced to life and a woman. Then his father dies and he is called back to take his rightful place but he doesn't like being hoity toity. So he goes back to the university with the hopes of the old life but he is no longer a student and they treat him as a king which makes him uncomfortable. They want to treat him like he is one of them but he isn't, so there is a reconciliation, an understanding of one's place. It ends with him going back home to assume the throne. We wound our way up to the top, couldn't find parking, wound our way down, then saw a sign for parking back up the hill so up we went! We walked around the castle and then went down into the old part of Heidelberg. As we entered the city, the cathedral started playing music on its chimes. The names of the two songs escape me for the moment but it was quite pleasant. So we went to the cathedral which was built in the 1400s. During the 1550s the kurphalz (ruler) decided that his German state which included Heidelberg would be Protestant. However, there were still a good number of Roman Catholics. So the Heidelberg ruler decided yo comprise and instead of alienating the Catholics or Protestants by making the cathedral one or the other so he built a wall down the middle that way both groups could go to the same church and sit on the Catholic or Protestant side. Obviously the Catholics eventually built their own church and the wall was taken down so the church became all Protestant. Then we wound our way back up to the castle, taking the stair path which had 303 stairs. They had the steps numbered which was rather depressing to see when you were gasping for breath and realizing you weren't even halfway. But we made it!
From Heidelberg we went to Freiburg to visit with cousins from my mom's Hungarian side (the Kreuts side). Freiburg is in the southwestern part of Germany at the edge of the Black Forest. It is an interesting city because much of the downtown area was leveled in WWII but has been rebuilt in the old style. The new Rathaus (city hall), which dates back to the 1500s, and the old Rathaus, which dates to the 1200s, were both rebuilt in their original style as much as possible. While walking around the old downtown area we came across a group of musicians playing drums and flutes, marching through the city in somber procession. These groups are generally dressed in black and are very serious. They appear during the Lenten season and reinforce the sacrifices of Lent and somber reflection. We went to the Munster which is the cathedral. It is a mix of Romanesque and gothic styles. There was a mass in progress when we visited and it was such a joy to hear the organ and beautiful hymns. We also went by the philosopher Erasmus' house. He stayed in Freiburg during the 1530s. One interesting thing about Freiburg is it's drainage system. A series of wide open gutters called bachle run through the city and you have to be careful where you walk so you don't fall in. The local folklore says that if you step in one of these bachle, you will marry a Freiburger. My cousin's husband asked my father if he should push me in, my father contemplated this serious matter but decided against it. So, to all my single friends, if you are looking for that perfect Freiburger mate, come take the step into the bachle!
Cheers!
Elizabeth
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